« BACK  |  PRINT

RS

MEMBER DIARY

The Lure of Government Spending

This diary is just a ramble; I’m thinking it out as I write it.  I just spent the last few days taking my wife to Anchorage to start her new federal job on Monday, August 2.  Yeah, that federal goverment, the one Comrade Obama runs.  Nota bene: I am not in Anchorage with her.

For those of you not familiar with Alaska, to get from the capital, Juneau, to Anchorage, the real capital, you have to take a boat or a plane; there is no road access.  Alaska operates one of the larger ship lines under the American flag, the Alaska Marine Highway System composed of vehicle/passenger ferries that link Alaska’s coastal towns with the US and Canadian highways.  The system operates for the convenience of its unionized employees and assures the maximum inconvenience to the travelling public.  Consequently, the departure time for the M/V Matanuska’s (See here: http://www.alaskaferry.com/Ferries.shtml#matanuska) voyage from Juneau to Haines, AK was 1:15 AM, too late for dinner, and the 6:00 AM arrival in Haines was too early for breakfast – and the bar was closed too!  Haines was one of those towns established as an entrepot for the Klondike Gold Rush and also became important in WWII and the Cold War as a military point of entry to the Far North and Alaska.  Its importance has diminished with the opening of a road from Skagway to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, but it remains the point of entry to the highway system if you’re going north.  The ferries haven’t changed in my almost forty years here; the hippies are in their sleeping bags in the solarium and you can get high on pot just walking through.  The short distance travelers are in the forward observation lounge or in the recliner lounge.  The tourists and other travellers from the Lower 48 have staterooms and you don’t see them in the middle of the night.  We put the car on and hit the recliner lounge.  We’re out of practice at this, so we weren’t all that well equipped for uncomfortable and inconvenient travel, but we did have a couple of stolen airline blankets and I found a way to get coffee.  The trip was uneventful and would have been scenic if I hadn’t seen it all before; it still doesn’t get totally dark at night this time of year.  I slept about as well as you can in a chair.  We got off in Haines and tried unsuccessfully to find a place open for breakfast.  You’d think that a place dependent on travellers would know the ferry schedule, but apparently serving breakfast at 6:00 AM is too much like work in Haines, so we hit the road, the only road, from Haines, AK to Haines Junction, YT, a hundred and change miles away.  The road is pretty good by Alaska standards; not too curvy and pretty well graded, but those of you only used to interstates wouldn’t like it, did see a couple of nice bears though.  Canadian Customs is very casual and really only seem to care whether you have any evil firearms and have enough money to get you out of their country.  We finally got some breakfast in Haines Junction.  Everything in Canada is the same as in the US except that it is all a little different.  I don’t know if that just happens or if they do it on purpose.  All the road food in the Yukon and Alaska is heavy and greasy, so manage your appetite and plan your rest stop breaks well; the rest stop toilets are truly disgusting.

At Haines Junction you turn left on the Alaska Highway, also known as the AlCan Highway, the World War II highway cut through the wilderness to give surface access to Alaska, at the time under Japanese attack.  When I first came to Alaska in ’74, I stopped in Haines Junction to camp for the night.  I saw eyes reflecting the lights of my Toyota LandCruiser as I got out to pitch the tent and decided that sharing the campground with a Grizzly wasn’t a good idea, but I really needed some sleep so I could drive safely, so we just crashed in the truck.  I was awakened at about 4 AM by the dog going crazy and the truck rocking from the Griz on the right side running board; I got the Hell out of Dodge.  It was Fall and raining and snowing; it rains and snows in the Fall in this part of the World, and the AlCan was still dirt and still mostly on its WWII right of way.  I kept the LandCruiser in 4WD pretty much all the way from Watson Lake, YT to the Alaska border.  And it wasn’t because I was scared, it was because the road was soup about six inches deep in the good places.  It cost me twenty bucks at the quarter car wash in Tok, AK to sorta’ get the vehicle clean; five years later when I sold it there was still AlCan dirt in it.

In ’74 there was little difference between Alaska and the Yukon; the road was paved from the Alaska border but not very well and nobody would accuse the AlCan from the Border to Fairbanks of being a good road.  It was maybe a little more developed in Alaska than in the Western Yukon, but not much and it was all still a world of no electricity, no phones, no television, little radio; back then Radio Moscow was the most powerful station on the dial if you had a shortwave, and most did.

We drove from Haines Junction to Beaver Creek, YT and stayed in the Westmark Hotel there.  Westmark started life as an Alaska hotel chain owned by former Governor Bill Sheffield (D-Alaska), but I think it now is owned by Holland America Cruise Lines.  No phones or TV but a really good dinner show; not Broadway, but a Helluva bunch better than you’d expect in Beaver Creek, YT.  The road from Haines Junction to Beaver Creek is paved now but it gives bad road all new meaning.  They even have burgers  in Yukon lodges named SHAKWAK, the acronym for the joint US-Canada deal to pave the Highway; of course the US pays for most of it.  Memo to file: a lowered, tricked up Chrysler 300M is NOT a car for the AlCan, even in its modern, paved incarnation!  I didn’t break anything but the front mudflaps – yeah, you put mudflaps on cars in this part of the World, but it was anything but a relaxing drive avoiding the potholes, pavement breaks, and frost heave whoop de doos.  There are only two seasons in this part of the World: Winter and Construction, and we were travelling in the height of construction season, so stops were frequent.  Oh, and did I mention mosquitos?  If you’ve never been to the Yukon or  Alaska, you’ve never seen mosquitos.  The car has heated mirrors so there’s always a little airflow from the heat/ac to the mirrors.  Whenever you stopped, within seconds the mosquitos would sense the heat and carbon dioxide from the inside air coming out the mirrors and there’d just be a cloud of them around each outside mirror.  And with that, we come to the point of this.

In ’74, there wasn’t really much difference between Alaska and the Yukon.  In ’10, there is almost no comparison.  Those of you who live in urban areas would be really uncomfortable in Alaska today, but at its worst most of Alaska on the road system isn’t much different from the rural areas of the Lower 48 and the cell phone service comes on pretty soon after you cross the US-Canada Border; you can surf the ‘net betwen the Border and Northway, AK, and that’s about as far from anywhere as you can get in the US.  The dinner show chorus in Beaver Creek has a song about being 301 miles from nowhere, the distance from Whitehorse, YT to Beaver Creek, YT; if you live here, you understand it.

The further you get into Alaska, the more modern and developed it becomes.  By Tok Junction, two hundred and change miles east of Fairbanks on the AlCan, you have most of what you’d expect in a small city in the Lower 48.  Along the right of way of the Richardson and Glenn Highways they’re putting in a fiber optic cable that will connect even these remote places with high speed internet.  About three hundred miles down the Richardson and Glenn Highways you come to Palmer and Wasilla, Sarah Palin’s stomping grounds.  Now you have the Big Box stores and all the amenities of modern American life.  Sarah likes to claim that she was one of those “small government” conservatives that didn’t tax the Wasilla residents to provide this, that, or the other.  She didn’t have to; the State of Alaska taxed the oil companies and thus you to pay for the things that made Wasilla possible.

In ’74, there wasn’t a red light between Fairbanks and Anchorage or between the Border and Anchorage.  The intersection between the Glenn and Parks Highways near Palmer that led to Fairbanks or Anchorage was a flat intersection with a stop sign.  Palmer was the important town and Wasilla was a spot in the road.  Now there is a fancy Interstate-style cloverleaf interchange, complete with some pretty fancy 1% art, and you have to get off the main route to go to Palmer.  Billions of State and federal dollars made Wasilla possible.

Whether you go right and north to Wasilla or left and south to go to Anchorage, you see what oil taxation and State and federal spending can do.  In ’74, it was all two lanes with flat intersections and stop signs, today it is all to interstate standards.    Other than an overabundance of redneck kids in fancy pickups running up in your mirrors at a hundred miles an hour, those of you who commute in the Lower 48 would feel right at home.  There is a new, modern, and very fancy police headquarters in Wasilla.  I don’t know who paid for it, but I’m reasonably certain the good citizens of Wasilla didn’t.

So, the point of this is, you can do really good things with government spending.  Some of you are thinking that this is all about that corrupt porker Ted Stevens, but the US owns more of Alaska than Alaska does, so those roads and other accoutrement are in its interest too.  And, the State paid for much of this stuff too.  The citizens of Alaska paid for almost none of it except as a share of the commonweal.

I drove up that long, demanding dirt road in ’74 because life in the Lower 48 had just become too confining and I was sick of having to carry a gun to safely get to work in Atlanta.  Alaska was a primitive and scruffy place back then.  The only places you could get a salad that had green lettuce was the Hotel Captain Cook, which flew it in, and Alaska Airlines, which flew it in for them.  My daughter grew up thinking lettuce was brown and milk was powdered; she was in her teens before she saw a live TV show.  In ’74, the nightly news came on in the morning and only if the plane bringing the tape from Seattle made it in.

The trip that defined my life after ’74 required a well equipped 4WD vehicle and substantial wilderness/camping skills.  Last week I made it in a near-luxury car and slept in decent hotels and ate decent meals, and all that was done with government spending.  There are two sides to the equation.

COMMENTS

  • JSobieski

    Particularly in this current climate,it is easy to conclude (mistakenly in my view) that the mushy middle is solidly against the seduction of government spending. The fact of the matter is that most people have bought into the foundations of the welfare-nanny state, they just don’t like the “extreme” examples. Conservatives ignore this reality at their peril.

    Government spending is a temptation. It wouldn’t be a genuine temptation unless it was capable of doing good in certain cases. However, for every police station build with federal dollars in Wasilla, there is a small business in the lower 48 that tanked because taxes were not cut. For every person in dire need of assistance grateful to receive it is another family weighed down by a sense of entitlement and no sense of urgency.

    Government spending is a powerful tool. I get a lot of use out of our highway system. The internet rocks. Private industry is not going to build multi-billion dollar particle accelerators to discover whether or not “dark matter” exists.

    However, the temptation to make decisions on behalf of the public good using public dollars is . . . seductive.

    • aesthete

      Bastiat’s “What is Seen, and What is Unseen” is always a good reference point for this sort of thing. From what I’ve heard about it, AK doesn’t seem like it would make for a particularly compelling Libertopia (though neither does Japan, Singapore, or Hong Kong, on paper, and they’ve gotten some mileage out of the free market). I do wonder why such an inhospitable place with obvious areas for government participation (more obvious than those in the East Corridor or the rest of the continental US, anyways) seems to be home to so many libertarians or libertarian-leaning folk.

      • Achance

        There’s a line in a book and play about ’60s Alaska, “Johnny’s Girl;” “Alaska isn’t a place where people go, it’s a place where people wind up.” There are a lot of misanthropes, missfits, and general sociopaths here. When Robert Kennedy tried to run the Patriots in Action and the other Western militias to ground in the early Sixties, the Hunts and other wealthy, conservative Texans helped to move a lot of them to the Matanuska Valley outside Anchorage. The Attwood Building, the primary State office building in Anchorage, was built as the Hunt Building; it ain’t a coincidence.

        Alaska isn’t a conservative state though it has been one of the Reddest states since the ‘Sixties. It is a socially libertarian state which won’t tolerate much of the Democrat nanny-state stuff and can’t prosper with the Democrat fealty to the Greeenies, so it votes Republican most of the time. Socially, it is a very liberal state; there are lots more bars than churches and marriage just kinda’ marks your place in line.

        • aesthete

          Thanks. So, sorta like western conservatives, but with some support for state capitalism, then?

          • Achance

            or discussion here. The average urban Alaskan really believes s/he lives in the private sector and pays taxes for the infrastructure and services provided to him/her. Most will eagerly bitch about how overtaxed they are and complain bitterly about all the government spending. They are blissfully unaware that their minimal property taxes pay only a miniscule percentage of their town or city’s budget. There is no statewide sales tax, Anchorage and Fairbanks don’t have a sales tax at all, there is no personal income tax and the corporate income tax only reaches the largest businesses, e.g., oil companies.

            Politically, Alaska is the State of Apathy so long as the Permanent Fund Dividend is enough to get everyone a week or two in some place warm or to buy a new flat screen. When I was still in government we joked that you could do anything as long as the PFD was over $1000. Much of Palin’s stratospheric popularity was from the fact that the State was pouring money into the economy, the PFD was almost $2000, and she issued another $1000/head that she styled a resouce rebate because of the high oil prices. Give that kind of money away and you get real popular. Scandal or excessive self-dealing is about the only thing that will truly damage a politician. Murkowski never recovered from appointing Lisa to his old Senate seat and then insisted on buying himself a jet despite public opposition; Alaskans do class envy real well and they’d prefer that the governor endure Alaska Airlines just like they have to.

          • snowshooze

            Yes, it is true, Alaska has changed before our eyes, and a lot to the good.
            Our State has been rolling in dough for years, and there has been a heck of a party. Spending has been rampant, the Taxpayers don’t mind it because they don’t feel it.
            And we are running a debt.
            With the oil revenues drying up, our Government is still blowing the dough in ever increasing speed.
            That PFD is worth 34 billion and our politicians are circling it like a pack of buzzards. It’s killing them that they can’t get into it, but it is merely a matter of time.
            Without further devolopment of our resources, we will very soon be in serious trouble. Our State hasn’t even made the least effort to cut back on reckless spending. And Devolopment is a four letter word in Alaska, with the influx of so many greenies and the outside environmental PAC’s
            Our schools have their own private trough to feed from and currently we spend over $17,000.00 per student, per year. The education is lousy, but at least the schools are tributes to modern architecture and the kids have laptops, even if they cannot add or spell.
            It won’t be long before the PFD is toast, or if it survives, it will be at the cost of additional taxation, income tax, sales tax and more. My city property tax rate only raised modestly, but in 5 years they tried to double my assessed value. They got close.
            The PFD will be a moot point on the ledger. Mine has been incorporated as just another number in the household budget for years. There are plenty of ways to liberate the dollars in my wallet.
            Federal matching dollars are fun. We build stuff we never wanted or needed, and then build them twice as big as we could hallucinate…and then are stuck with maintnance, operations and personnel costs in perpetuity. Hey, look at the free Federal money..
            True, we have come a very long way in just a few short years, but it is unsustainable. And I fear nothing will change until after the wreck.
            When the easy money is gone, we will feel the full brunt of being a Taxpayer, and it is going to hurt. Until that time however, there just will not be any interest, and by then…we will probably look like California.

          • Achance

            Production levels are becoming critical and ACES is thwarting development of new fields to increase production. Add to that the hostile Administration’s ability to use federal regulatory power to keep us from doing anything even on State lands.

            It takes a vote of the People to get to the corpus of the Permanent Fund, and I don’t see that happening unless there is a truly catastrophic collapse. If the high price doesn’t hold, I think for the first time we might see the Legislature appropriating from the more or less half of the earnings that are technically available for appropriation.

          • snowshooze

            Well, true, $80 oil saves the day for Alaskans, but that is only the day.
            So…the next budget will be based on $95 oil…and if oil falls back to $50…
            And there you go. Whiplash.
            The trainwreck looms.
            As i said, it doesn’t matter about the PFD when the money is gone. They will get it, or they will give it to us and get it back. Tax us to oblivion and it isn’t a problem to them. All those that think they are pulling their own weight in taxes now.. and as you say are prtetty indignant at that…they don’t have a clue what the per-capita ecpenditures are worth which if I remember correctly at my last analisis was arounf $25,000.00 a head. Not a household…a head. ( I think that’s what it divided out to…)
            That would be BRUTAL!! I couldn’t live here. ( Well, us Alaska Boys use the underground economy a bit more than most..barter and trade a bit more than most, so we will never starve..)
            Yes, in truth, it is only a reflection of Governmental spending on the overall..
            And when you look at the unfunded liabilities of the US government, in addition to the Debt…here is a sick link…
            http://www.truthin08.org/widget/
            There’s a quarter million on me before I even think about the State of Alaska…, it is getting to the point that I could not pull it. At all. Ever.
            I look at all this stuff, and I think…we are racing to pile up as much debt as possible before we declare bankruptcy. That is the only strategy that supports our actions as far as I can tell, not only a train wreck, but a planned train wreck, and we want to be going as fast as a train can go when it happens. Looks like a war with China over money to me. When we de-value the dollar to the value of lire…oh golly gee won’t they go crazy.
            But yeah, is the Alaska Budget tied directly to oil? I don’t think so. If we are allowed to borrow ourselves under, we will.

  • David123

    I’d like to see a paved highway from Haines and/or Skagway to Juneau. The other states have paved highways to their state capitals.

    • Achance

      and too much money. The citizenry of Alaska would much rather gild the gold plate in ANC and FAI than build a road in Southeast. Palin effectively moved the capital to ANC by letting almost all of her commissioners and directors live in ANC; she would barely come here herself. After the ’12 reapportionment, Juneau will not have the horsepower in the Legislature to protect itself and the capital will be de facto moved. The star on the map may stay here for a little while but Juneau has realized its death wish; too many lefties, too many greenies, and too many totally self-centered business people just made the place too expensive and hostile to live in. In a few years it will be like all the other third world tourist traps; a few rich owners and a lot of transient wait staff.

  • fbks

    The interstate highway system is in my view one factor why the US has been the world’s power house economy and a justifiable use of tax dollars under the “commerce” and “general welfare” clauses of the constitution. Not entitlement spending, regulating health care and creating a one payer system, ect.
    The construction of the Alcan Highway and the modernization of the various highways between Tok, Anchorage, Fairbanks, Prudhoe, Central, Eagle make large portions of the state accessible to resource development.
    The problem is most resources are locked up through federal ownership or constant lawsuits brought on by nationally funded “environmental” groups.
    Resources must be economical to exploit and a transportation infrastructure is a critical factor.
    The land withdrawals set aside by executive order by Jimmy Carter (when he had become a lame duck president, 12/02/1980, we’ll see what this congress does between November and January) created expansions and new units of the National Park System. Aside from hard parks and monuments, many large National “Preserves” were created. Resource development is prohibited, but hunting is “supposed” to continue. In hard parks there is no hunting. Wildlife “Refuges” and BLM “Wilderness” areas were also set up which allow hunting, but again no resource development.
    The interesting aspect is the only logical reason for where many of these units were created is not the scenery (scrub brush, tussock flats and hills, swamps, ect, hellish environments where you NEVER see greenie backpackers) but the immense known reserves of minerals.
    There goes 60% of Alaska. The state and Native corporations own the rest, and tend to be friendly toward development but most projects become stillborn or delayed for years with a cabal (should be prosecuted under the RICO act) of groups who continue to sue.
    When the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) was created, the very small portion along the Arctic Ocean wherein the controversy over oil drilling continues was exempted in favor of future drilling. Now there is the real threat of “wilderness” designation for this area.
    The Gwi’chin steering committee is often quoted in arguments against drilling. Gwi’chin refers to specific groups of Athabascan Indians who speak a dialect of the same name. They are divided on this issue, the group that makes the news is from Venetie and Arctic Village, whose villages chose not to create corporations but retain reservation status.
    The Steering Committee claims to speak for them, but I have been in Venetie and can verify that outside white environmentalists use the name and Native American theme to bolster opposition arguments. It is a front “shell” organization, with a few real Natives to keep up public appearances.
    The argument is that they depend on caribou and drilling in the calving grounds will destroy that resource. The problem is that caribou calve on the North Slope during the summer, but industry operations are limited to winter months. Drill pads and pipelines are in place year around, but it is proven beyond doubt that caribou thrive around Prudhoe Bay and other regions despite the development.
    Alaska needs a road to Nome from Fairbanks, but more importantly we need to develop our resources. Every time a politician from some run down, polluted urban ghetto in the states wants to be “green”, he votes to lock up more acres in Alaska where no one cares, instead of his own backyard.

  • Stan(ley) Pruss

    As the debt increases and eventually causes interest rates to rise, would Washington ever be smart enough to sell land to pay down debt? Really never?

    • JSobieski

      start buying and selling real estate as a means for generating revenue. Think of the bubble that could cause!

      • Achance

        it owns most of the land already; 60-80 % of many Western states isn’t state land at alll but rather either federal Indian land or federal land outright. When I look out my window here in Juneau, practically everything I see from horizon to horizon is federal land. In point of fact the US has bought and sold land since the beginning from the Northwest Territories, the Louisiana Purchase, the Mexican Cession, all the Homestead Acts and railroad alternate section deals. The US has run on land sales since the beginning of the Republic.

        • JSobieski

          don’t think they won’t get into the business of taking land for the purposes of selling it and facilitating the ability of government to spend more.

          The US has bought and sold land since the beginning of the Republic, but only recently did government spendinging in peace time go beyond 20% of GDP. Do you want Reid and Pelosi to start a new version of Fannie Mae/Freddie Mac?

          I don’t. I support land sales to free up the land. If government learns that there is money to be made, there will be undesirable consequences.

        • Stan(ley) Pruss

          http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2010/aug/06/wyoming-grand-teton-national-park

  • fbks

    While Achance is familiar with the inner workings of the state government, I made my living for years off the land in the area north of Tok.
    Eagle was the site of a gold rush preceding the great Klondike rush or the later stampedes from where we have Nome and Fairbanks. It used to be the hub of the interior with regular mail by dog team (through Tanacross and Valdez) and sternwheelers running the Yukon River.
    Placer gold mining continued through the years but it has become a backwater. It is beyond doubt the most scenic country of the interior, with mountain ranges, caribou, moose, Dall and Fannin (Stone) sheep, King and Dog salmon runs, and the mighty Yukon River.
    I maintained a trapline for marten (sable) that at the time were valuable, averaging (the marten from the eastern Interior are the best quality in North America) approx. $150 apiece in 1980s $$. I kept 3 to 5 mongrel “sled” dogs and would pack them and walk out to the country from Eagle in late August/September and trap until late March/early April.
    The dogs you see used for the Yukon Quest or Iditarod are a different breed, bred for speed. Trapline dogs are barrel chested, long legged, averaging 80 to 100 lbs., are tougher than nails and can be aggressive. Dogs that fought too much were just culled because with a small team you cannot deal with injuries from fighting.
    The race teams have at least 12 plus dozens of alternates because they are supplied from urban centers. When you are out in the country 7 months of the year, the issue of feed, and is the dog worth the feed he is eating become real issues. Therefore I would start with maybe 7 to 9 and cull the slouches down to 4 to 5 by midwinter.
    To feed the dogs I would gillnet Dog (Chum) salmon in the eddies of the Yukon. After I had been in Eagle a few years, I built a fish wheel and was told that it would not work on the bank across from town. A fish wheel is Chinese invention which is a pair of wire mesh backed “scoops, paired to a pair of “paddles” built on a log raft floated by 55 gallon barrels. The current of the river turns the paddles and the scoops pick up the fish and they slide into boxes built on the sides of the raft.
    The first year I caught so many fish I half sunk the raft, flipped the stern back Grumman canoe and ended up swimming fully dressed with a .44 on my side halfway across the Yukon. Of course the biggest naysayers built a wheel and set it below my location the next and subsequent falls.
    You cut half the fish you catch in half and dry them and the rest you hang whole and let them freeze. The whole fish are blanched in boiling water and are the basis for dog feed; the dried fish are light and good for traveling. For human use, I preferred smoke drying King salmon, which is an excellent traveling food.
    I had a large trapline. about a 100 miles of hand cut trails, with a “main” cabin, about 12′ by 14′ with several “line” cabins and wall tents so I could cover about 10 to 15 miles a day. The week was divided into 6 days of trapping and the 7th in the main cabin, resting the dogs, skinning and drying the furs and listening to the radio.
    The eastern Interior is very cold; days below -55 would require staying “home”. WWII bolt action rifles were in my budget and dependable. In late fall I would clean out all oil and grease (even around the firing pin) and rub down with kerosene. Once outside your rifle stays outside because bringing it in cause?s condensation.
    We would walk out from Eagle in the fall, about 60 miles, all the dogs and myself packing. I would schedule a plane to fly out and airdrop bundles of fish and tallow for the dogs, rice, 10 gallons of kerosene for light, a 5 lb block of cheese, coffee and a few other items.
    My first year I was “grubstaked” by the local AC company for $350 in supplies. Add to that about $500 in air charter costs and I was in business. There are no landing strips or gravel bars large enough for aircraft so everything was airdropped on a large patch of tundra.
    I wouldn’t see anyone until Christmas when a friend flew in on the frozen river with a cub on skis to pick up the fur (the main fur auctions were just after Christmas) bring mail and goodies.
    The best marten trapping is from mid October to Christmas. After this the marten do not travel very much and you need to care for the resource for sustainability. The real cold hits around Christmas until mid February, I have seen three weeks where the temperature never rose above -60.
    After Christmas I would set new lines (the overflow on the creeks and snow cover make new country accessible without cutting trails) and catch wolves. The average year I would catch 150 marten, 6 to 8 wolves and a couple of wolverine. That was a profit around $20,000.
    Wolf trapping (I never have been good with snares) is an art form. In the fall I would hand cut trails and cut dry wood “drags”. These are black spruce poles about 12′ long and a foot thick. You boil the #9 Manning and #114s traps in a barrel with spruce tips and willow and a layer of wax on the surface. You always use the same gloves and never touch the dogs with these gloves.
    You then attach a 12′ to 14′ chain to the trap and drag (you want a long chain so the wolf cannot get leverage on the trap) and set it near the trail, and let the snow build up undisturbed. The snow would build up and my trails were 14″ wide, so I could set the traps in the trail off the toboggan, right behind the wheel dog. We would then run over the trap and smooth the snow without any trace of a disturbance. Wolves begin to use the trail as the snow deepens and the scent of the dogs is an attractant. When I shot caribou, I would also drag the carcass behind the dogs for an attractant.
    The problem with wolves is they hunt in family groups. When you catch a young animal and are not soon on the scene, it is too bad for him, the other wolves tear it apart and you have scraps of fur and odds and ends left. The large breeding male and female are not killed, and as soon as you remove it, you set all around the place and 6 in 10 times will have more wolves caught.
    When you approach a live wolf, some are growling and tugging on the chain, while others will not look at you and are hard to get a good, clean killing shot through the ear.
    Not long after I started trapping Carter created, among a lot of other messes, a Wild and Scenic River designation where my main cabin was located. The BLM flew out in a helicopter and posted the cabin and tried to run me off. I was grandfathered in and told them (among many people in the same position throughout Alaska) to go screw themselves.
    I never did care for them or the National Park Service, and have and will continue to resist in all manners possible their mismanagement of lands in this state. At the time they were running out trappers they went after the small placer miners and were successful in shutting down many viable operations.
    During the spring I would move back out to the Yukon valley and go “ratting”, harvesting musk rats, and during the summer go with the local Village fire crew on wild fires throughout the state.
    I thought it might be interesting to some of those to know a little more about the “fly over or drive through” part of Alaska that Achance wrote about. I lived what could be called a subsistence life for about 20 years before getting into big game guiding, which is a whole other look at Alaska, spanning from the eastern Interior, north west Interior and north west Arctic.
    I would like to see the opportunity to experience life at its most basic for my children and grandchildren, whether or not they do so.

    • Achance
      • Achance

        Here’s the whole of “The Cremation of Sam McGee”

        The Cremation of Sam McGeeby Robert W. Service

        There are strange things done in the midnight sun
        By the men who moil for gold;
        The Arctic trails have their secret tales
        That would make your blood run cold;
        The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
        But the queerest they ever did see
        Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
        I cremated Sam McGee.

        Now Sam McGee was from Tennessee, where the cotton blooms and blows.
        Why he left his home in the South to roam ’round the Pole, God only knows.
        He was always cold, but the land of gold seemed to hold him like a spell;
        Though he’d often say in his homely way that “he’d sooner live in hell.”

        On a Christmas Day we were mushing our way over the Dawson trail.
        Talk of your cold! through the parka’s fold it stabbed like a driven nail.
        If our eyes we’d close, then the lashes froze till sometimes we couldn’t see;
        It wasn’t much fun, but the only one to whimper was Sam McGee.

        And that very night, as we lay packed tight in our robes beneath the snow,
        And the dogs were fed, and the stars o’erhead were dancing heel and toe,
        He turned to me, and “Cap,” says he, “I’ll cash in this trip, I guess;
        And if I do, I’m asking that you won’t refuse my last request.”

        Well, he seemed so low that I couldn’t say no; then he says with a sort of moan:
        “It’s the curs?d cold, and it’s got right hold till I’m chilled clean through to the bone.
        Yet ’tain’t being dead?it’s my awful dread of the icy grave that pains;
        So I want you to swear that, foul or fair, you’ll cremate my last remains.”

        A pal’s last need is a thing to heed, so I swore I would not fail;
        And we started on at the streak of dawn; but God! he looked ghastly pale.
        He crouched on the sleigh, and he raved all day of his home in Tennessee;
        And before nightfall a corpse was all that was left of Sam McGee.

        There wasn’t a breath in that land of death, and I hurried, horror-driven,
        With a corpse half hid that I couldn’t get rid, because of a promise given;
        It was lashed to the sleigh, and it seemed to say: “You may tax your brawn and brains,
        But you promised true, and it’s up to you to cremate those last remains.”

        Now a promise made is a debt unpaid, and the trail has its own stern code.
        In the days to come, though my lips were dumb, in my heart how I cursed that load.
        In the long, long night, by the lone firelight, while the huskies, round in a ring,
        Howled out their woes to the homeless snows? O God! how I loathed the thing.

        And every day that quiet clay seemed to heavy and heavier grow;
        And on I went, though the dogs were spent and the grub was getting low;
        The trail was bad, and I felt half mad, but I swore I would not give in;
        And I’d often sing to the hateful thing, and it hearkened with a grin.

        Till I came to the marge of Lake Lebarge, and a derelict there lay;
        It was jammed in the ice, but I saw in a trice it was called the “Alice May.”
        And I looked at it, and I thought a bit, and I looked at my frozen chum;
        Then “Here,” said I, with a sudden cry, “is my cre-ma-tor-eum.”

        Some planks I tore from the cabin floor, and I lit the boiler fire;
        Some coal I found that was lying around, and I heaped the fuel higher;
        The flames just soared, and the furnace roared?such a blaze you seldom see;
        And I burrowed a hole in the glowing coal, and I stuffed in Sam McGee.

        Then I made a hike, for I didn’t like to hear him sizzle so;
        And the heavens scowled, and the huskies howled, and the wind began to blow.
        It was icy cold, but the hot sweat rolled down my cheeks, and I don’t know why;
        And the greasy smoke in an inky cloak went streaking down the sky.

        I do not know how long in the snow I wrestled with grisly fear;
        But the stars came out and they danced about ere again I ventured near;
        I was sick with dread, but I bravely said: “I’ll just take a peep inside.
        I guess he’s cooked, and it’s time I looked”; … then the door I opened wide.

        And there sat Sam, looking cool and calm, in the heart of the furnace roar;
        And he wore a smile you could see a mile, and he said: “Please close that door.
        It’s fine in here, but I greatly fear you’ll let in the cold and storm?
        Since I left Plumtree, down in Tennessee, it’s the first time I’ve been warm.”

        There are strange things done in the midnight sun
        By the men who moil for gold;
        The Arctic trails have their secret tales
        That would make your blood run cold;
        The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
        But the queerest they ever did see
        Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
        I cremated Sam McGee.